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New on the Menu

New on the Menu: Hummus with ramps and a boozy milk punch

Plus a black cod Ssam, multicultural octopus and Ryan Ratino’s version of beef tartare

Of all the cattle that we raise, dairy cattle live the longest, for reasons that are probably obvious: They produce milk for six or seven years before they are slaughtered rather than beef cattle which are slaughtered at around two years. Normally in the United States, dairy cattle meat is ground and sold as commodity beef to be used mostly in hamburgers, but increasingly chefs are finding other uses for this flavorful meat. Some are aging the center cuts and making them into a gamy sort of steak, but Ryan Ratino, the executive chef at Bresca in Washington, D.C., is mincing the meat into a tartare, enriched by the rendered beef fat, and serving it in rye tartlet crust.

In Venice, Calif., at Belles Beach House, executive chef Sydney Hunter is taking classic miso-marinated black cod and making ssam, Korean lettuce wraps, out of it, and elsewhere in the Los Angeles area, at the Delphi Hotel, which opened in downtown L.A. in April, a boozy milk punch made with Cognac and Port is served at its Delphi Lounge.

Not far away in West Hollywood, Calif., at Bombo, which also opened last month, head chef Samantha Quintero is offering a red wine octopus with multicultural influences that she says reflects her heritage as a native Angelina.

And at Ilili in New York City chef and owner Philippe Massoud is closing out ramp season with dishes including creamy hummus topped with the vegetable sautéed in Lebanese olive oil.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

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