Overthrow Hospitality has, for years, been quietly running bars all over New York City with meatless menus. The customers don’t seem to miss the animal protein, and their chefs have become very creative with vegetables, like the corn “ribs,” that are being served at the company’s newest cocktail bar, Etérea.
Also in New York, the team that brought Morgan’s Texas-style barbecue to Brooklyn has opened Tiny’s Cantina a few blocks away. Originally conceived of during the pandemic as a takeout-friendly tlayuderia — a tlayuda is a type of Oaxacan pizza, sort of — it opened as the city was opening up and became more of a taqueria with a full bar. But there’s still a tlayuda on the menu, reinterpreted by Poblano chef Cenobio Canalizo.
Nice Day is another restaurant that opened in New York during the pandemic — a takeout spinoff of fast-casual Chinese concept Junzi Kitchen. They’ve revamped their menu, including a dish that mashes up two comfort foods: Mac & cheese and mapo tofu.
Meanwhile, in Nashville, Kristin Beringson is the new executive chef of Henley, where she’s serving curried corn chowder with a chunk of bone marrow. And in Chicago, the fourth location of Avli has opened and features a traditional dish of shrimp with ouzo, with the not-so-traditional addition of smoked feta cheese.
Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]
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