After 18 years of awarding stars to restaurants in New York City and California, and decades of handing them out in Europe, the Michelin Guide has gradually been expanding to markets with restaurants less accustomed to the limelight. Their latest forays are into Colorado and Georgia. Many chefs in those states see this a boon, and others wonder why it took them so long to get there, and they generally agree that getting the guide is a good thing.
“Many restaurants have likely been hoping for this for a long time and are thrilled to now work in a market where a Michelin nod is even possible,” said chef Aaron Phillips, partner at Atlanta's Lazy Betty and Humble Pie. "The arrival of the Michelin Guide in Atlanta means the restaurant industry here is being recognized for its progress in a major way and I'm extremely excited to see our town join a group of amazing cities that are already celebrated for their excellence."
For chef Ron Hsu, Phillips' partner and the culinary director at the two Atlanta restaurants, earning a Michelin star would bring his career full circle. Before returning home and opening his own spots, he worked as executive sous chef and later creative director for the Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York City.
On July 11 the Michelin Guide announced its entry into Atlanta, but before this news, the biggest accolade the two owners could look forward to was the James Beard Foundation’s Restaurant and Chef Awards, and both were named semifinalists for Best Chef Southeast in 2023. While Phillips said that, while strong opinions surround any award platform, he believes overall chefs and restaurant owners are excited.
"The dining scene in Atlanta has been progressing for a long time and with Michelin coming to town, this trend will only continue," he said. "There are many hard working and talented people here that are dedicated to excellence and can meet Michelin standards, and I believe the city will embrace the guide."
A month prior, on June 14, Colorado received word the Michelin Guide was coming, and by the end of 2023 stars will be awarded in Denver, Boulder, Aspen, Snowmass Village, the Town of Vail, and/or Beaver Creek Resort. For Frasca Hospitality Group founder and master sommelier Bobby Stuckey, who runs Frasca Food & Wine and Pizzeria Alberico in Boulder, as well as Tavernetta and Sunday Vinyl in Denver, the entry of the guide is something he has longed waited for.
"Colorado has worked really hard in the 28 years since I moved here to work at The Little Nell [in Aspen] to continually evolve, elevate and diversify," said Stuckey. "The restaurants in our state deserve to have the spotlight of this standard bearer of excellence shine upon them."
It's not just for the restaurants, he added. Stuckey said the arrival of the Michelin Guide will have an impact on the entire economic ecosystem, including taxis and ride shares, hotels, retail shops, local attractions, and more.
For those states that have had the guide for years, the addition of Colorado and Atlanta are a welcome change.
"The food coming out of Colorado is quite delicious, and there are places there that are certainly worthy of a star," said chef Stefano Secchi, owner of Rezdora in New York City, which earned a Michelin Star in 2021 and 2022. "The guide coming is extremely helpful, not only to the proprietors who have operated there with high standards and delicious food but also for people traveling. ... It's about time and we are excited for them."
Still, there are issues surrounding the guide. For starters, restaurants in areas without it can never receive Michelin stars, no matter how amazing the food, service, and atmosphere are. In some cases the lack of recognition means less business, less media coverage, and less money.
The ranking system also has a penchant for more expensive restaurants. Of the thousands of establishments awarded stars, only a handful sport single dollar signs, which notes the cost as being around $10 and under per person. Double dollar signs mean between $10 and $25, and the four dollar sign is for $50 and up. Some of the cheapest starred restaurants include Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski's State Bird Provisions in San Francisco and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle in Singapore. The latter is possibly the most inexpensive spot in any of the guides given that a bowl of noodles clocks in at around $5.
These are a far cry from Kitcho Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan, which also has one star and a price tag of around $900 per person. Or even chef Daisuke Nakazawa’s more moderately priced Sushi Nakazawa in Washington D.C., which is $150 per person for the 20-course tasting menu. When comparing street food to expertly prepared sushi, how does that star really factor in?
Of course the Michelin Guide isn't just about the three-star system, though gaining a star (or two or three) certainly adds some clout to the operation. There's also the Michelin Bib Gourmand ranking, which covers more the quality of the food for the price, and the Michelin Plate, a mention that means the restaurant is very good, though not on par with the starred establishments.
Though the guide may come to Georgia and Colorado, for chef Caroline Glover, owner of the award-winning Annette Scratch to Table in Aurora, Colo., she doesn't see Michelin changing much for her restaurant. Instead, she said, it's more a sign for the rest of the country that, yes, Colorado has amazing restaurants worthy of this recognition. Plus, she added, it's great for the state's economy.
"The folks that live and work here know how high the caliber of restaurants is, but for guests and visitors from around the country and globe, it's further proof that there are some great chefs and restaurants here pushing our food scene forward," she said. “I don’t think it will change anything for Annette. We will keep striving every day to dial in our restaurant and deliver a better, more consistent dining experience."
That, she said, has always been the goal.
