What we’re seeing:
We’re fortunate enough to have one of the godfathers of nose-to-tail cooking in our own back yard—chef Jonathon Sawyer of Cleveland’s Greenhouse Tavern. Sawyer and others have expanded beyond the pig’s head into fish collars, chicken skin, pig trotters, pork cheeks and other seldom-used parts. Matthias Merges pushed the envelope further with his “skin sampler” at Yusho in Chicago.
What they’re saying:
Bruce Bronster, Windels Marx Lane & Mittendorf: We all came from the poor country, and when you’re poor, you’re going to use the entire animal. What chefs are really doing today is experimenting using unusual parts. They’re not doing it to save money, but to explore interesting takes on cuisine.
In the kitchen:
• At CBD Provisions in Dallas, Michael Sindoni has an Amberjack Crudo on the menu served with chicken crackling and a fish sauce vinaigrette.
• FT33’s McCallister uses various animal fats for cooking, evidenced in his smoked chicken schmaltz. He also uses chicken skin for crunchy texture, and trotters and cheeks get smoked and go into various dishes, including a Brewster Oat Porridge.