It's rare to find young chefs hanging around any one restaurant for long unless they own their own joint. They are troubadours who make music with many in their search for wisdom. And then there are chefs like Eric Ziebold, who dig in for years suppressing their sense of wanderlust. But who can blame the 32-year-old? For the last eight or so years Ziebold has toiled at The French Laundry, one of the world's most celebrated restaurants. It was no doubt difficult to walk away from his post asThomas Keller's chef de cuisine at the storied Yountville, CA, outpost. But, apparently, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Washington, DC, made Ziebold an offer he couldn't refuse. He's now heading up the hotel's 74-seat signature restaurant, CityZen. Ziebold's move signals a return to his roots, where he began his career at Vadalia. After a short stint, he left to cook for a year at L.A.'s Spago before settling in wine country. Now that he's back in the capital, the media are already gushing. And who wouldn't over dishes such as Foie Gras Risotto with Roasted Granny Smith Apple. Cooking like this deserves frequent flier points.