Aging fish is a longstanding tradition in Japan, and a growing trend in the United States, where chefs are finding that it can firm up the texture while also changing the fish’s flavor.
Ryan Costanza, the chef of Present Tense in Nashville, finds that aging tuna mellows the flavor, which he then augments with the addition of sesame aïoli, wagyu beef fat, seaweed sourdough, and other ingredients.
At Chilte in Phoenix, chef Lawrence Smith adds a bit of drama to his quesadilla by adding some less frequently seen Mexican delicacies, including the corn fungus huitlacoche, grasshoppers, and smoked ants.
At Khan Saab Desi Craft Kitchen in Fullerton, Calif., the all-halal menu features the cuisines of South Asia, and the bar program is alcohol free, including a vegan version of eggnog called an EggNot.
Alexandra Puglisi, the pastry chef of Le Coucou in New York, is combining pineapple, bananas, and coconut for a tropical flambée dessert, and in Austin, at El Raval, chef Laila Bazahm is using kombu, lemon grass, hoisin sauce, and shichimi togarashi to liven up her duck paella.
Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]