Clayton, Mo.
November 2016
Named for the Italian word for sardine, Sardella is James Beard winner Best Chef: Midwest Gerard Craft's new concept, replacing his flagship restaurant, Niche. Executive chef Nick Blue and executive pastry chef Sarah Osborn are also shaping the menu, which is pleasantly whimsical but rooted in appealing classics. Sign us up for all of the shareable plates, which include dinner rolls with black garlic butter, pistachio and white bean hummus and gnocco fritto: airy fried dough pockets filled with crème fraiche and topped with gravlax, bone marrow, citrus and tarragon. And with a name like Sardella, there must be seafood. A few different crudos, like fluke tartare with lime, walnut oil and chives, look innovative and fresh. Italian dishes veer into Asian territory with Uni Carbonara and Miso-Ricotta Ravioli, spiked with orange, pepitas, brown butter and tarragon. Sardella is open for breakfast and lunch as well.