In this all-New York edition of NOM, we look at how restaurants are taking popular dishes and making them their own.
Nothing’s more popular than a burger, and Greenpoint Fish & Lobster doesn’t shy away from the fast-food heritage of the sandwich, using thin patties, cheese and “special sauce.” But the burger is made from yellowfin tuna trim scraped from the carcass, and then blended with sautéed mushrooms for added umami.
Greenpoint is the seafood supplier of Seamore’s, a small chain focused on sustainability, and it provides them with consistently priced monkfish that is used in a toothsome grilled fish sandwich.
Eli Kaimeh, formerly of Thomas Keller’s flagship restaurant Per Se, is now at Tavern by WS — for Wine Spectator — in the new Hudson Yards development. Keller is known for using whimsical, down-market names to describe his dishes, and Kaimeh is taking a similar tack with his pork-and-beans appetizer made with kurobuta hog jowl.
Seven Seeds at the Williamsburg Hotel in Brooklyn is a Mediterranean restaurant, so of course it has to have hummus, but chef Melissa O’Donnell gives it a twist by fermenting it with white miso.
There’s also plenty of miso at the new New York location of Sanpoutei, a chain based in Niigata Japan, where its lunchtime dish is Mabo Ramen, a dish of thin Japanese noodles topped with Chinese mapo tofu.
Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]
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