Towa is a new restaurant in New York City’s NoMad neighborhood by Hand Hospitality (the people behind Her Name is Han, Jua, Atomix and others) inspired by Japan’s tradition of kaiseki, a multicourse meal using pristine ingredients and refined techniques. There chef Masaya Shirai offers this dish, which is a type of ohitashi — a vegetable steeped in dashi broth.
He makes a dashi jelly by combining a basic dashi broth made of bonito flakes and kombu seaweed with rice vinegar, sugar and soy sauce, adds chia seeds and passion fruit and then thickens it with agar agar.
He steeps the peeled tomato in regular dashi and then serves it in the jelly.
For this dish at Brassica restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Atlanta Buckhead, executive chef Christophe Le Métayer makes a purée of carrots sautéed in olive oil and then simmered in water.
He separately sautés in olive oil baby carrots, pearl onions, turnips, beets and button mushroom, each on its own and finished with a little water to glaze the vegetables once they’re cooked al dente.
At service he reheats the carrot purée in its serving vessel and also reheats the vegetables, except for the beets, and adds them to the vessel which he plates with radicchio over a room-temperature dressing of brown butter stirred with honey and whole-grain mustard.
At Boca restaurant in Cincinnati, lead bartender Morgan Elzey makes this dairy free cocktail with the texture enhanced by oat milk and aquafaba — the viscous liquid found in canned chickpeas.
Elzey combines 1.5 ounces of Wheatley vodka with coconut steeped in it, an ounce of simple syrup infused with Thai basil and ginger, ¾ ounce of oat milk, ½ ounce of aquafaba, ¼ ounce each of lime juice and lemon juice and a bar spoon of matcha powder. That’s all shaken with ice and strained into a Collins glass with a rim of toasted coconut and then filled with ice.
Kale & Golden Raisin Pizza
This seasonal vegetable pizza was introduced last week at Myke’s Pizza in downtown Mesa, Ariz. Owner and pizzaiolo Myke Olsen tops the pizza with fresh mozzarella and Idiazabal cheese, baby kale from local Steadfast Farms, golden raisins and a charred lemon relish.
He says the sweetness of the raisins tempers the bitterness of the kale and sourness of the lemon, while the Idiazabal, a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese with the gaminess of a pecorino cheese and the mild nuttiness of Parmigiano-Reggiano, adds complexity.
Chilean Sea Bass with buttermilk herb vinaigrette
Philip Martin, chef of Trio in Palm Springs, Calif., is offering this light dish that he makes by sautéing together wild mushrooms, peewee potato, English peas and watermelon radish, adding them in that order so that they are all cooked al dente at the same time.
He serves them with a Chilean sea bass fillet that is simply seasoned with salt and pepper and seared, along with a light, broken vinaigrette made by combining oil infused with chive, parsley and dill with buttermilk and lemon juice.