It might be hard to remember, but Brussels sprouts used to be a non-starter in restaurants until people started frying them with bacon, but Ken Irvine of Bleu Bohème in San Diego takes a different approach: He sautés them in olive oil and spruces them up with seasonal produce (and, yes, some pork belly), for something that’s different and agreeably complex.
Two counties up, at Manna Cafe in Los Angeles, Brian Hill has developed a brisket that is neither Texas-style nor the style of Eastern European Jews, but instead an herbaceous roasted meat with a flavor all its own
Farther inland, in Palm Springs, Calif., at Reforma, Erick Hernandez adds Peruvian flair to the go-to summertime dinner of owner Rob Giesecke.
At five-unit American Social, with locations throughout Florida, chef Ryan Leonard draws inspiration from his grandmother’s apple butter to dress up his ribs, and in Boston, at a clubby new restaurant called Caveau, COJE Management Group beverage director Ray Tremblay offers a cocktail inspired by his time on the Hawaiian island of Kauai that has proven to be quite popular with his customers.
Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]
