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Restaurant Hospitality
New on the Menu: A cone of chicken tenders and an egg-stuffed omelet topped with eggs
Bret Thorn Feb 26, 2021

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Egg Five Ways
Neil Burger

Chef Donald Young plans to feature this dish at Venteux, a restaurant opening in Chicago this spring.

It’s an omelet (that’s one way to cook an egg) filled with a mixture of lightly scrambled egg (that’s a second way) and Delice de Bourgogne cheese. It’s topped with trout roe (a third egg) and a “yeasted hollandaise” sauce.

The hollandaise is made by cooking egg, cream and fresh yeast in sous vide at 65 degrees Centigrade, both to cook the yolk and to kill the yeast (“I have accidentally not cooked it enough and ended up with a crazy bubbly mess,” Young said). Then that mixture is thinned out with yellow tomato coulis and emulsified with butter.

“Overall, the only component missing to liken it to brioche specifically is flour, which was my whole intent when I first started down the path of making this,” he said.

For the fifth egg is salt-cured egg that’s grated over the top of the omelet. Accompanying the egg are house-made potato chips and a salad of spring mix and fine herbs salad.

Price: $18

Pan-roasted Steelhead with pomegranate and salsa verde
Jarret Standard Photography

For this dish, Matt D’Ambrosi, chef of Blue Ridge Kitchen at the Barlow outdoor marketplace in Sebastopol, Calif., plates roasted steelhead trout with charred and creamed Brussels sprouts and kale, along with potatoes that have been boiled, chilled, smashed and then fried until crispy.

He also makes a gastrique with pomegranate juice and pink peppercorns cooked down with sugar and vinegar. He said the sweet-and-sour sauce complements the fish well and also goes nicely with the cream in the vegetables. He adds pomegranate seeds for acidity and crunch, and then finishes the dish with an Italian salsa verde made with capers, parsley, lemon, garlic, shallot, olive oil and a little Parmesan cheese.

“The salsa verde is great because it adds a fresh, herbaceous essence that complements both the gastrique and the cream sauce,” he said.

Price: $29

Salted Caramel Chicken Tenders in a cone

Buttercup is a limited-service restaurant that just opened in Legacy Food Hall in Plano, Texas, offering fried chicken tenders in a wide variety of sauces that are completely unrelated to Buffalo. Options include the signature Buttercup flavor, in which the tenders are dressed in honey butter with lemon zest, chives and mac & cheese; Thai basil, which includes sweet chile, peanuts, sesame seed, candied orange and sticky rice as well as basil: and the one pictured here: Salted Caramel, with caramel sauce, pretzel pieces, green apples and Maldon salt flakes. They’re available in a cardboard boat or, for easy snacking while walking, a cone.

Price: $8

Healthy Cobb

This dish by Carsten Johannsen, executive chef of Harold’s at the Arlo SoHo hotel in New York City, is an extra-soigné version of the classic salad.

Laid out so customers can select exactly what they want to eat, the dish has avocado, hard-boiled egg slices, charred broccolini and a blend of farro and toasted pumpkin seeds tossed in the restaurant’s signature spice blend. That’s all laid out over a salad mix including green gem lettuce, red endive, frisée and arugula. It comes with green goddess dressing.

Price: $19

Crispy Kataifi Cheese Pie

This is an updated version of tiropita, feta-stuffed phyllo normally baked in large trays to feed the whole family.

At Andros Taverna, chef Doug Psaltis’s new restaurant in Chicago, the dish is made with kataifi, or shredded phyllo, and is made to order.

Psaltis sandwiches both feta and kefalograviera cheeses between the kataifi and drizzles honey and crushed pistachios on top.

Price: $12

Next Up
New on the Menu: Brown rice mousse, low-waste lobster and mackerel in fish sauce caramel
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